The South End -15 Minutes on Two Blocks of Shawmut Avenue
I finally managed to get into Coppa (www.coppaboston.com) for dinner last Thursday night, on my third try. Ken Orringer’s newest restaurant serves tapas style, locally sourced, Italian food. They do not accept reservations, and they reach capacity at 30 diners, so landing a table in this hot spot is no small feat. Previous attempts to dine there resulted in 2.5-3 hour wait times – no thanks. This time, I arrived with my dining companion at 5:10. They open daily for dinner at 5:30, and begin taking names at 5:25PM.
With 15 minutes to kill, I strolled down Shawmut Avenue, past some really great little sole proprietorships, like the Polka Dog Bakery (www.polkadog.com) which was selling homemade Valentine’s treats for the local pet population. Next door, I came upon South End Formaggio (www.southendformaggio.com) singled out by Oprah Winfrey as one of the best gourmet grocers in the country. You can pick up artisinal cheese and chocolates, French wine and Champagne, and anything else you need to whip up a Barefoot Contessa worthy feast to impress and indulge your guests. There’s also the Syrian Grocery, an institution for 75 years selling exotic spices, dried fruits, and South End lore.
With 5 more minutes to kill, I stopped into my friend Jill Goldberg’s fine home furnishings shop called HUDSON (www.hudsonboston.com). Situated right next to the best cupcake bakery in town, The Buttery (www.southendbuttery.com), HUDSON has claimed numerous of my paychecks over the last three years as I’ve furnished and accessorized many rooms of my home with her well edited collection.
Rushing back down Shawmut to claim my spot at Coppa, I was reminded of the importance of small independent businesses to the vitality of a community. I passed a jeweler’s shop, drycleaners, kitchen design studio, and two or three more small and wonderful restaurants. What distinguishes Boston and its neighborhoods from other cities (besides the beautiful architecture) is the careful non-proliferation of chain stores, strip malls, and neon-lit fast food restaurants. Here in the South End, the shops are often staffed by their owners. These owners all live and shop in the same community. They care deeply about the health and well-being of the neighborhood. Perhaps that is why the South End weathered the national downturn in the housing market, and emerged stronger, more vital, and in demand by buyers and renters.
Coppa was delicious. I was given a prime seat in the front window to watch the parade of South End residents coming to and fro. If you go, try the hand made pasta dishes, hangar steak a-la-plancha, faro salad, arancini stuffed with fontina, and the pizza margherita. You are likely to see Ken Orringer himself manning the grill, pouring drinks and chatting up diners. Say hi, and think how great it would be to find your own spot to call home in the South End.
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